Tag Archives: Osso Buco

Osso Buco: A Recipe

 Braised Lamb Shanks with White Beans

 lamb-shank-blogWhile this isn’t strictly Osso Buco because it is made with lamb shanks rather than veal shanks, it comes pretty close. This is a project that takes an entire afternoon (about 4 hours) but is well worth the time invested. Once again, this recipe comes from my family’s current favorite cookbook: The Gourmet Cookbook, a collection of recipes from Gourmet magazine.  

 For Lamb Shanks
4 lamb shanks (about 1 pound each)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, coarsely chopped
1 medium carrot, coarsely chopped
1 celery rib, coarsely chopped
8 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
1 (750-mililiter) bottle full-bodied red wine, preferably Bordeaux
4 cups chicken stock or store-bought low-sodium broth
1 tablespoon tomato paste
2 fresh thyme sprigs

For Gremolata
3 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest (about 1 lemon)
3 garlic cloves, minced

For Beans
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 small onions, finely chopped
2 small carrots, finely chopped
2 celery ribs, finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 cups cooked white beans (preferably Great Northern or navy), rinsed if canned
2 to 2 ½ cups chicken stock or store-bought low-sodium broth
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 Turkish bay leaf or ½ California bay leaf
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

For Finishing Sauce
3 fresh tarragon sprigs
1 tablespoon unsalted butter

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The lamb shanks are cooked two different ways: first they are braised, then they are stewed in stock, wine and vegetables. These lamb shanks are halfway there -- they've been braised.

Make the Lamb Shanks
            Pat lamb shanks dry and season with salt and pepper. Heat oil in pot over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking. Brown shanks well all over, in batches, 5 to 8 minutes per batch, and transfer to a plate. Add onion, carrot, celery, and garlic and sauté until onion is softened, about 3 minutes. Add wine and simmer mixture, stirring occasionally, until liquid is reduced to about 3 cups, about 6 to 8 minutes.

Stir in stock, tomato paste, and thyme and return shanks to pot. Bring to a boil, then cover, reduce heat, and simmer, stirring and turning shanks occasionally, for 1 ½ hours.

Uncover pot and simmer, stirring occasionally, until lamb shanks are tender, about 1 more hour.

veggies-blog

The basic vegetables for the dish -- carrots, celery, onions and garlic -- are used in both the liquid in which the shanks are stewed and in the white beans. Here the vegetables are coarsely chopped for the stew.

Meanwhile, Make the Gremolata
Stir together gremolata ingredients in a small bowl. Cover and set aside.

Make the Beans
            Heat oil in a 4-quart heavy saucepan over moderately heat until hot but not smoking. Add onions, carrots, celery, and garlic and cook, stirring, until onions are softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Add beans, 2 cups stock, butter, and bay leaf and simmer over moderate heat, stirring occasionally and adding remaining stock as necessary to keep beans moist, until they have reached a creamy consistency, about 30 minutes. Discard bay leaf and stir in half of gremolata and salt and pepper to taste. Remove from heat and cover to keep warm.

When lamb shanks are tender, transfer to a plate and keep warm, covered with foil. Strain braising liquid through a sieve into a saucepan, discarding solids, and stir in butter and tarragon. Boil sauce, stirring occasionally, until thickened slightly. Strain sauce through sieve into a bowl and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Sprinkle lamb shanks with remaining gremolata and serve with beans and sauce.

Recipe also available on Epicurious.com.

Osso Buco: A Poem

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Billy Collins

To whet your appetite for Osso Buco and give you something to chew on mentally, I present you with a poem by Billy Collins entitled “Osso Buco.” Billy Collins was named U.S. Poet Laureate in 2001 and writes wonderfully clever yet gracious poetry about the ordinary. 

Read this poem aloud and listen to the sound of the words, and don’t stop reading at the end of every line but follow the punctuation. 

“Osso Buco”

by Billy Collins

I love the sound of the bone against the plate
and the fortress-like look of it
lying before me in a moat of risotto,
the meat soft as the leg of an angel
who has lived a purely airborne existence.
And best of all, the secret marrow,
the invaded privacy of the animal
prized out with a knife and swallowed down
with cold, exhilarating wine.

I am swaying now in the hour after dinner,
a citizen tilted back on his chair,
a creature with a full stomach–
something you don’t hear much about in poetry,
that sanctuary of hunger and deprivation.
you know: the driving rain, the boots by the door,
small birds searching for berries in winter.

But tonight, the lion of contentment
has placed a warm heavy paw on my chest,
and I can only close my eyes and listen
to the drums of woe throbbing in the distance
and the sound of my wife’s laughter
on the telephone in the next room,
the woman who cooked the savory osso buco,
who pointed to show the butcher the ones she wanted.
She who talks to her faraway friend
while I linger here at the table
with a hot, companionable cup of tea,
feeling like one of the friendly natives,
a reliable guide, maybe even the chief’s favorite son.

Somewhere, a man is crawling up a rocky hillside
on bleeding knees and palms, an Irish penitent
carrying the stone of the world in his stomach;
and elsewhere people of all nations stare
at one another across a long, empty table.

But here, the candles give off their warm glow,
the same light that Shakespeare and Izaac Walton wrote by,
the light that lit and shadowed the faces of history.
Only now it plays on the blue plates,
the crumpled napkins, the crossed knife and fork.

In a while, one of us will go up to bed
and the other will follow.
Then we will slip below the surface of the night
into miles of water, drifting down and down
to the dark, soundless bottom
until the weight of dreams pulls us lower still,
below the shale and layered rock,
beneath the strata of hunger and pleasure,
into the broken bones of the earth itself,
into the marrow of the only place we know.

from The Art of Drowning

Photo credit: John Hopkins University


Osso Buco: An Introduction

Just over two years ago, on December 27, 2006, I had Osso Buco for the first time. I was in Naples, Florida with my family visiting relatives for Christmas. On the 27th we went to an Italian restaurant to celebrate my aunt’s birthday and it was there I had Osso Buco.

Osso Buco? What’s that? Braised veal shanks. OK, veal sounds a little weird. Isn’t that baby cow? Yep, and traditionally these baby cows are fed a diet of milk rather than grain or hay and are only allowed to exercise very little, which causes the meat to remain tender and light in color. You can read more about it here

veal-cuts

Osso buco is made from the foreshank of the calf.

The special thing about Osso Buco isn’t just the tender veal meat, though, but also the marrow inside the bone.  The cut of meat used in Osso Buco is a 3-inch slice from the foreshank of the calf, so you get a piece of meat enveloping a cross-section of marrow-filled bone. Even the name of the dish points to the prized marrow, as Wikipedia informs meOsso Buco literally means “hole bone” (osso ”bone,” buco ”hole”). Osso Buco is served with a long-handled little spoon so the diner can scrape every last bit of marrow from the bone.   

bone-marrow-spoon

Notice how both ends of the marrow spoon are designed for use, allowing you to scrape out every last bit of bone marrow goodness.

In an effort to give you a well-rounded education about veal, I feel it my duty to inform you that veal is also a very controversial meat. Google “veal” and you will discover countless websites objecting to the inhumanity of raising calves for veal meat. The veal industry, however, is not without its reply.   

Whether you decide veal or no veal — do visit Runner Beans again for the second and third parts of this series on Osso Buco.    

 

Photo credits: Veal cuts: Encyclopedia Britannica online. Marrow spoon: Benjamin Franklin Tercentenary exhibit