Category Archives: Dairy

Toasted Coconut Cream Puffs

cream puffs in lineCream Puffs definitely make the cut into my Top Five Favorite Desserts of All Time. You might recall that last year I blogged about classic Cream Puffs and Gougeres, which are both made with the same type of dough— pâte à choux. Ever since I blogged about those classic whipped cream-filled cream puffs, I’ve been dreaming of another variation: Toasted Coconut Cream Puffs.

cream puff overheadFor the toasted coconut version I decided to fill the cream puffs with a combination of coconut-infused pastry cream and whipped cream. For a complex yet mellow coconut flavor, I toasted the coconut in the oven before infusing it in the milk and cream for the pastry cream. Additional toasted coconut made its way into the cream puff dough, and a final dusting of toasted coconut on top of the cream puffs ensured these cream puffs were undeniably coconutty. Drizzles of chocolate and caramel broadened the flavor spectrum while adding a bit of elegance.

cream puffs and plateThere’s another reason I had the urge to blog about cream puffs again: I’ve been scouring David Lebovitz’s impressive Paris Pastry app in preparation for Sam’s and my grand adventure to Paris and Cologne this week. The app’s gorgeous photos of eclairs and religeuses have me salivating and dreaming of pastries. I thought it would be fun to have one last baking hurrah before my trip, so I made these as a nod to Paris pastries.

cream puff single

Au revoir, friends! See you in a few weeks with plenty of pictures of Paris pastries!

cream puffs diptychMake the Toasted Coconut Pastry Cream

Recipe adapted from Michael Ruhlman’s crème pâtissière recipe (Ratiop 215).

Ingredients
3/4 cup unsweetened shredded coconut
½ cup plus 3 tablespoons milk
1½ cups heavy cream, divided
¼ vanilla bean, spit lengthwise
¼ cup sugar
4 egg yolks
3 tablespoons cornstarch
2 tablespoons butter

  1. Toast the coconut. Preheat oven to 325°F. Toast the coconut for 8-10 minutes, until fragrant and golden brown. Set aside ¼ cup of the toasted coconut to use in the cream puff batter and as a garnish.
  2. Infuse the milk. Combine the remaining ½ cup coconut, ½ cup milk, 1 cup heavy cream and vanilla bean in a medium saucepan. Bring to a simmer over moderate heat. Remove pan from heat and allow mixture to steep for 15 minutes.
  3. Prepare other ingredients. Meanwhile, combine the yolks and sugar in a medium-sized heatproof bowl. Stir vigorously to begin dissolving sugar. Prepare an ice bath of ice water in a container large enough to accommodate the saucepan. Stir together the cornstarch and remaining 3 tablespoons milk in a small bowl.
  4. Make the pastry cream. Once the cream has steeped for 15 minutes, remove and discard the vanilla bean. Bring the cream to a simmer once again and then gradually whisk it into the yolks and sugar. (Even though the cream will be gloppy from the coconut flakes, it is important to add the cream to the yolks gradually and to stir quickly so the hot cream does not cook the egg yolks.) Pour the mixture back into the saucepan and add the cornstarch mixture, stirring constantly. Continue stirring over medium heat until the custard becomes very thick and is just about to boil. (Don’t worry if the custard seems overly thick; it will be thinned out with whipped cream later.) Remove the pan from the heat and submerge the base in the ice bath, stirring constantly. Add the butter and stir to thorougly incorporate it. Transfer the pastry cream to a bowl and refrigerate until cool, two to three hours.
  5. Whip cream. When you are ready to fill the cream puffs, whip the remaining 1 cup heavy cream with an electric mixer to hard peaks using a chilled bowl and chilled beaters.
  6. Combine pastry cream and whipped cream. Gently mix together the chilled pastry cream and whipped cream. Chill until ready to use.

Make the Cream Puffs

Recipe adapted from Michael Ruhlman’s pâte à choux recipe (Ratio, p 45).

Ingredients
1 cup water (8 oz.)
8 tablespoons unsalted butter (4 oz.)
2 teaspoons sugar
1 scant cup flour (4 oz.)
4 large eggs (8 oz.)
¼ cup unsweetened shredded coconut, toasted (see pastry cream recipe)

  1. Prepare. Preheat oven to 425°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Mis en place: measure all ingredients and line them up so they’re within reach and ready when you need them.
  2. Make the Dough. Heat the water, butter and sugar in a 2-quart saucepan over medium heat. Stir occasionally with a wooden spoon and bring the mixture to a boil. As soon as it boils and the butter has melted, add the flour. Stir like mad to incorporate the flour into the liquid. The dough will move from gelatinous goop to a shiny, cohesive ball that forms around the spoon as you stir. Continue stirring for 60 more seconds. This will cook the flour and remove its raw taste.
  3. Stir in the eggs. Spoon the dough ball into a clean bowl and let cool for two minutes. While the dough is still warm, heartily stir the eggs in one at a time. The dough will not accept the egg at first and look curdled, like spätzle. Continue stirring and eventually the egg will incorporate thoroughly into the dough. Add the other eggs one at a time, making sure each egg is fully incorporated before adding the next egg. Then stir in the toasted coconut. Alternatively, you can use an electric hand mixer or stand mixer with paddle attachment to beat in the eggs one at a time. Use a low speed to avoid beating extra air into the batter.
  4. Shape or pipe. Using two teaspoons or a small ice-cream scoop, place small mounds of dough about 1 inch apart on the baking sheets. My small ice cream scoop (7/8 oz. capacity) yielded 20 puffs. Alternatively, you can pipe with dough onto the baking sheet. Just make sure you pipe a mound and not a flat disk.
  5.  Bake. Bake the puffs at 425°F for 10 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 375°F and bake for 10-20 more minutes, until puffs have risen and are golden brown.

Assemble the Toasted Coconut Cream Puffs

Ingredients
Toasted Coconut Pastry Cream, above
Cream Puffs, above
2 tablespoons toasted coconut (reserved from pastry cream above)
caramel sauce (optional)
melted chocolate (optional)
 

  1. Slice the top of the cream puffs off with a sharp knife and fill with 1-2 tablespoons of coconut pastry cream. Replace top. Alternatively, place the pastry cream in a pastry bag fitted with a round tip. Poke a hole in the bottom of each cream puff with the pastry tip and fill with pastry cream.
  2. Drizzle the cream puffs with caramel sauce or melted chocolate and sprinkle with toasted coconut. Serve.

 

DIY Dairy: A Guide to Making Your Own Dairy Products

DIY Dairy collage

Lately I’ve been trying to manage three obsessions: The Olympics, The Hunger Games and Pinterest. All week I’ve been trying to find a way to weave these topics into my blog posts. Aside from delving into the obvious food-related questions—Do Olympians really eat MacDonald’s? (I hope not.) Do grooslings really exist? (Probably not.)—yesterday I suddenly realized that one thing my three obsessions have in common is that they inspire me to action.

When I watch Allyson Felix run—we’re the same age, height and weight (on a good days)—it inspires me to break out of my running rut and run harder than I thought I could. When I read about Katniss foraging for food, climbing trees and outwitting her opponents, it inspires me to be brave. When I pin DIY and craft projects on Pinterest, it inspires me to think outside the box and create something with what I already have.

Then I made another connection: even if I’ve been a little slow to jump on the DIY home décor movement, I’ve always had a strong DIY spirit in the kitchen. From pie crusts to soup stock, making food from scratch has always been immensely satisfying for me. In the past few years I’ve delved into making my own dairy products. Some of my ventures have been smashing successes while others have been, well, floundering failures. Today I’d like to share with you what I learned from my dairy experiences. I’ve analyzed six dairy products (whipped cream, crème fraîche, yogurt, ricotta, mozzarella and jack cheese) time involved, price, ease of making and taste. I hope my experiences with DIY Dairy will give you the confidence to try something new in the kitchen.

A few notes:

  • I based all of the prices off of Trader Joe’s products because it’s a national chain and where I buy most of my dairy products.
  • I try to buy organic dairy products whenever I can, so the price for homemade dairy products reflects the price of organic milk or cream.

Whipped Cream

Homemade whipped cream may seem so obviously a product that should be made from scratch that I almost didn’t include it. But through reading blogs and chatting with friends I realized that some people have never whipped their own cream.

Ingredients: heavy cream

Price: Cheaper to whip your own. Organic homemade: $0.21/oz. Store-bought: $0.26/oz.

Time: Less than five minutes with an electric mixer.

Taste: Home-whipped cream tastes better than store-bought because it doesn’t include stabilizers. Plus with homemade you can control the amount of sugar or add-ins, like vanilla, maple syrup or liqueur.

Verdict: Make it yourself! And if you miss the fun spray nozzle on the store bought canisters, invest in the iSi Mini Whipped Cream Dispenser, which dispenses whipped cream in less than a minute.

How-To: Whipped Cream Directions Scroll to the bottom of my cream puff recipe for instructions on whipping heavy cream.

Yogurt

Making yogurt at home has been a daily ritual for families throughout the world for hundreds of years. Sure, Williams Sonoma and Sur La Table sell electric yogurt makers for the home kitchen, it is possible to make cheaper, tastier yogurt at home without a fancy yogurt maker.

Ingredients: milk, existing yogurt or freeze-dried starter

Price: Cheaper to make your own yogurt. Homemade organic: $1.78/qt. Store-bought organic: $2.99/qt.

Time: 5-7 hours total, 30 minutes active.

Taste: In my opinion, homemade yogurt tastes very similar to store-bought yogurt. Homemade yogurt is runny (European style, according to Trader Joe’s), so if you want a thick, Greek style yogurt you’ll need to let your yogurt incubate longer and then strain it.

Verdict: While homemade yogurt is something I used to make regularly, I’ve started buying it at Costco because it tastes great, is a fair price and is organic. With the time I save from not making yogurt, I can explore making other things.

How-To: I’ve written two posts on making yogurt at home without a yogurt maker: How to Make Yogurt at Home Without a Yogurt Maker and A Step-by-Step Pictorial Guide to Making Yogurt.

Crème Fraiche

Whenever I see a recipe that calls for crème fraîche, I cringe a little because this cultured cream can be expensive and hard to track down. I was intrigued by recipes for homemade crème fraîche, but also skeptical that such a simple process could yield this pricey, hard to find thickened cream.

Ingredients: heavy cream, buttermilk

Price: Cheaper to make your own. Homemade organic: $1.57/7.5 oz. tub. Trader Joe’s sells a 7.5 oz. tub for $3.79, but I’ve seen tubs at Whole Foods for $5.99.  Note that that $3.79 Trader Joe’s crème fraîche is not organic, so by making it at home you can have an organic product.

Time: 12 hours total, 2 minutes active. You read that right—2 minutes active time! Crème fraîche is by far the easiest dairy product I’ve ever made.

Taste: I think homemade crème fraîche tastes great, but it won’t taste exactly like store-bought. I think the reason for this is the homemade recipe I make uses buttermilk as the cultures, while commercial crème fraîche uses special cultures (which you can buy online here). Perhaps if you have a palate attuned to the minutiae of crème fraîche you’d be better off buying it or the cultures to properly make your own, but I know plenty of bloggers who are just as happy to make their own using buttermilk as the culture.

Verdict: Make it! With a lower price and so little effort to make it, there’s no reason not to try it at least once. 

How-To: Combine whipping cream and buttermilk in a jar and set it on the counter overnight. The next day it will have thickened into tangy crème fraîche. No cooking involved! Check out this post for the directions. 

Ricotta

Ricotta is a staple of Italian cuisine, making appearances in everything from lasagna to bruschetta to cannoli. Rumor has it that ricotta is easy to make at home, but is it worth the time and effort?

Ingredients: milk, heavy cream, buttermilk

Price: Homemade organic: $3.27/15 oz. Trader Joe’s non-organic: $3.29/15 oz.

Time: 60-90 minutes total, 15 minutes active.

Taste: Homemade ricotta is hands-down much more delicious than store-bought ricotta, and I’m not alone in thinking so: I’ve read and heard this many, many times from food bloggers and friends. Store-bought ricotta is often gummy and heavy, while homemade is creamy and light.

Verdict: Make it! Though the price is virtually the same, homemade tastes much better. Also, the price quoted for homemade is organic, so in essence you’re actually getting more bang for your buck to make it at home.

How-To: Jennifer Perillo’s recipe on Food 52 has been my go-to recipe.  

Mozzarella

Let me preface this section by saying that I have not successfully made mozzarella cheese. I’ve tried three different batches, but to no avail. Mozzarella is supposed to be relatively easy to make, but I haven’t had any luck.

Ingredients: milk, rennet, citric acid

Price: This one is tricky. Trader Joe’s fresh mozzarella packed in brine costs $7.00/lb. Homemade organic costs $5.99-7.49/lb. for the milk, plus the price of citric acid and rennet.

Time: The recipe claims to take 30 minutes, but I’d budget 60 minutes just to be safe.

Taste: Can’t say! The curds I’ve made taste like mozzarella, but the texture is all wrong.

Verdict: Try it a few times if you’re up for a challenge, but if you’re like me, you’ll probably stick with buying it.

How-To: Ricki the Cheese Queen has very detailed instructions on her website if you’re game for making your own mozzarella.

Jack Cheese

I’m throwing this one in for kicks because I think you have to be pretty serious about making things from scratch to try making your own Jack cheese. My mom and I tried making Jack Cheese with the Cheesemaking kit from Ricki the Cheese Queen a few years ago and here’s our consensus.

Ingredients: milk, rennet, culture, calcium chloride

Price: Cheaper to buy. Trader Joe’s Jack Cheese: $3.99/lb. Homemade organic: $5.99 for milk, plus the price of rennet, culture and calcium chloride.  

Time: 3-8 Months. Okay, it takes 3-8 months if you cure it properly. The initial cheese making process takes at least 4 hours, but then you have to drain it, brine it and cure it. We only made it through the draining step.

Taste: Good, but we didn’t go to the effort to let it fully cure for several months so I don’t think we can accurately comment on its taste.

Verdict: Buy it, unless you’re willing to invest a lot of time and money (for the cheese wax and other special supplies) for a pound of cheese that may or may not turn out.

How-To: Here’s a link to the recipe on Ricki the Cheese Queen’s website.

Whew! That’s a whole lot of dairy. Even so, I’m ready to expand this list and try my hand at making fromage blanc, haloumi and mascarpone. Are you going to try to make any dairy products?

Affogato

espresso cupsThis week the only meal item more consistent than the lattes we’ve been drinking with breakfast are the homemade affogatos we’ve been making for dessert.  These grown-up ice cream floats are easy-peasy: scoop vanilla ice cream into a bowl, pull a shot of espresso and drown the ice cream in the hot espresso. Affogato means “drowned” in Italian, and once you pour the hot espresso over the ice cream, it’s easy to see how the dessert got its name. As the espresso crema melds with the sweetened cream of the ice cream, it creates a velvety and luxurious indulgence.

ice creamWe like to use Three Twins Madagascar Vanilla ice cream in our affogatos because it’s a creamy rather than icy ice cream. As for espresso, well, I’ll reveal the real reason we’ve been splurging on affogatos nearly every night: we bought a Nespresso machine last weekend. For those of you who aren’t familiar with this line of espresso machines, it uses a capsule system to brew espresso quickly and easily. I can hear the coffee purists (and romantics) groaning at the thought of a capsule system—and until last weekend, I did too. At first I felt guilty for using such an automated system. I use an electric toothbrush, read books on my iPad and now use an espresso machine that is as automated as it gets? Was this machine bringing me one step closer to the utterly unromantic food capsule system of The Jetsons?

affogato espresso poured over ice cream The more I thought about it, the more I began to feel a kinship with the characters in the Industrial Revolution-era mini series Lark Rise to Candleford and Cranford, who shudder at how the imminent railway will change their quiet, close-knit communities. Today we’re already well into the technological revolution of the digital age, but how do we balance the new with the old? What do we hold on to and what do we let go?

History is the great teacher that helps us make sense of our current times, and if I look back to reactions to the Industrial Revolution, I think of the art nouveau movement. In reaction to the monotony of the mass produced art created by machines, the art nouveau artists sought inspiration in nature and infused their work with sinuous curves they saw in nature. If I look around me today, I can see people making concerted efforts to unplug from technology and relearn the forgotten arts of previous generations: handmade goods are popular, canning classes are popping up and the DIY movement is as strong as ever. I know I don’t want to live in the past—Midnight in Paris showed me the folly of that mindset—but I also don’t want to forget where I came from, so to speak. Perhaps the answer lies not in rejecting this or embracing that but in observing how the changes affect us and living intentionally in light of that. One thing’s for sure: this isn’t something I can solve in one blog post and package neatly with a bow. In the meantime, I’m going to say I can live with the more frequent affogato ritual.

affogato finishedAs far as I’m concerned, there’s no wrong or right way to make an affogato. Experiment with different flavors of ice cream (Sam likes cardamom ice cream) or adding a spoonful of amaretto or hazelnut liqueur. If you don’t have espresso readily available, use a strong, dark coffee.

Ingredients

1 scoop of vanilla ice cream
1 shot of hot espresso

Make the Affogato

Scoop the ice cream into a bowl, pour the espresso over the top and eat immediately.

Chocolate Pudding

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The recipe for this pudding came “from the kitchen of” my mother, who copied it onto a recipe notecard from her friend back in the 1970s. This pudding is by no means fancy, but it’s a classic and can quickly be made without any special ingredients. Jazz up the pudding by using a high-quality cocoa powder like Scharffen-Berger or Guittard.

Serves 4-5

Ingredients

1/3 cup cocoa powder
1/3 cup sugar
3 tablespoons cornstarch
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 1/2 cups milk
1 teaspoon vanilla

Make the Chocolate Pudding

Combine the cocoa powder, sugar, cornstarch and salt in a medium saucepan. Gradually whisk in the milk. I find an immersion blender quickly and efficiently blends the dry ingredients into the milk. Turn the heat onto medium and stir constantly as pudding thickens. After about four minutes, you’ll notice that the pudding thickens a lot—keep cooking and stirring! After 4-6 more minutes, remove the pudding from the heat and stir in the vanilla. Transfer pudding to a heatproof container and chill in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours.

Baked Eggs with Gruyere, Spinach and Oven-Dried Tomatoes

“A little luxury.” That’s what Shirley O. Corriher calls these baked eggs in her cookbook Cookwise—and I’d have to agree. When you dip your spoon into the still-hot ramekin, a layer of melted gruyere clings to  it, and you can smell the nutmeg, that companion of gruyere. Beneath the cheese, milk and egg white mingle in a creamy sauce. As your spoon pierces the tenuous surface of the liquid-gold yolk, it spills into the crannies you’ve created, down to the layers of spinach and oven-dried tomatoes. Every spoonful is a moment of discovery, the flavors of each bite building upon the last.

Just think: simple pantry ingredients transformed into a little luxury. That’s what I love about these baked eggs. Little luxuries.

step1step2step3step4step5step6step7step8

Recipe adapted from Shirley O. Corriher’s CookWise.

Makes 1 baked egg. Easily doubled or scaled up.

In this version of baked eggs, I use gruyere, spinach and oven-dried tomatoes, but feel free to use whatever cheese and vegetables you have on hand. Cheddar and bacon would be delicious, as would mozzarella with fresh cherry tomatoes and par-cooked zucchini. 

Ingredients

½ teaspoon butter
1 large egg
4 leaves fresh spinach (optional)
1 tablespoon chopped oven-dried tomatoes (optional)
freshly grated nutmeg
salt and pepper
2 tablespoons whole milk or cream
1 tablespoon grated Gruyere cheese

toast, to serve

Make the Baked Eggs

Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter a small (6 oz) ramekin. If using spinach and tomatoes, place spinach in the bottom of the ramekin and top with tomato. Crack the egg into the ramekin. Sprinkle with nutmeg, salt and pepper. Spoon milk on top of egg and sprinkle with Gruyere.

Bake for 10-14 minutes, until white is set but yolk is still runny (or according to your preference). Bear in mind that the egg will continue cooking once it is removed from the oven. Also, the ramekin will be hot, so make sure to remind your guests that it is hot. Serve with toast.

baked eggs